Looks Like We Made It

When we began this trip, I referred to it as my tree trip. One of the goals of the trip was to see the Sequoia/Giant Redwood trees (the biggest trees) and the Bristlecone Pine trees (the oldest trees) in California. Because of the Covid Crisis we never made it to California and it looked like that goal would have to wait for another trip. Today we left the Oregon coast and decided to take the route to our next Oregon state park (Valley of the Rogue State Park) that dips into California and passes by Jedidiah Smith Redwoods State Park. The park has been closed since early March but we knew we could probably see some redwoods, from the road, if we traveled that way. I couldn’t believe my eyes when we got to the park sign and it said, “Open”! We pulled in and learned that the park only opened this week so we are some of the first people to visit this year. This state park contains 7% of all of the old-growth redwoods left in the world. We hiked through the magnificent forest and I was truly awed and humbled by these astounding giants. “....from the Redwood Forests, to the Gulf Stream waters; this land was made for you and me!”

Love at first sight!

Sad Farewell

Port Orford Heads State Park

Many of the places we visit, we know we will visit again, but the Oregon coast is so far from home, it could be years before we find ourselves this far west again. That fact has made us more conscious than we ordinarily are, of making the most of each moment we have here. We have hiked almost every day, but after talking to a local biker, staying in our campground, we found out about a bike ride, 10 miles inland, that he comes every year to do. It’s a road ride, but after hearing his glowing reviews we decided to pump up our mountain bike tires and check it out. The ride takes you along the crystal clear Elk River, on a tree canopied road and gives you the illusion that the topography is basically flat. It’s only after you pedal 11 miles and turn around, when the pavement becomes a dirt road, that you realize you’ve been on an incline the whole way out. The ride back is fabulous with amazing views of the river and effortless pedaling to the parking lot you started from. If you love biking and are visiting this area, I highly recommend this ride! It begins at the Elk River Fish Hatchery and has little to no traffic.

Tomorrow we leave the coast. I’m sad we’ve run out of time here, but SO thankful we had the opportunity to visit this extraordinary place.

Favorite Redhead

Last Stop on the Coast

After traveling essentially the entire length of highway 101 (beautiful,but long if you can only average 50 mph because of traffic and slow speed limits through coastal towns) we made it to Humbug Mountain State Park, six miles south of the idyllic town of Port Orford; oldest town on the Oregon coast. This park is smaller than Nehalem and is a popular camp stopover for hikers and bikers. It’s another amazing Oregon park. This area has one of the Oregon Coasts highest headlands that shelter our forest ringed, creek side campground. There is also beach and trailhead access from our campsite. One of my favorite hikes of the trip is the Humbug Mountain hike. The trail is pristine (no mud) and the 4.5 mile loop stays in an old growth forest the whole way offering breathtaking views of the ocean and beaches below. If that’s not enough, we also discovered a wonderful joint called Crazy Norwegians, in Port Orford, serving wonderful fish and chips and Marion berry pie. Life is good for the Amundson’s!

Campground beach

Tasty Treats

As we have made our way west, I discovered that the Cabot (Vermont cheddar) I usually buy, had been replaced, in the dairy section, with a cheese called Tillamook. I bought a block and loved it and have continued to look for it wherever we go. I realized when we ended up on the coast of Oregon that the county where we are staying is called Tillamook. Ironically, my new favorite cheddar is made at a creamery just down the road. The creamery hasn’t reopened to the public yet, but we are thankful that most of the cool shops along the coast are slowly reopening with a few restrictions. It would have been a shame to spend the week here and miss out on the cherry pie at Sisters and Pete’s, in Manzanita. It’s definitely the best pie of the trip!

Wow, Just Wow

I’m not really a beach person; at least I wasn’t until I visited the Oregon coast. Nehalem Bay State Park has been our home this week and the campground here is awesome! We have a campsite in the trees and beach access a short walk from our camper door. However, the state park just five miles north has really stolen my heart! Oswald West State Park doesn’t allow overnight camping but does have incredible hiking trails. Most of the trailheads begin in the shadow of Neahkahnie Mountain; the tallest peak on the northern coast. The name Neahkahnie means “place of the creator”, and it does feel magical. The assortment of trails are varied and beautiful. Hiking to the top of the mountain takes you through open meadows, lush temperate rain forests and old growth coastal trees. The Sitka Spruce tree grows here and is the largest of the spruce species. The hike to Falcon Cove takes you by a pristine beach and ends with views of coves bordered by cliffs that drop hundreds of feet straight into the ocean. Factor in that we just happen to hit this rainy section of the coast during an unexpected dry period and you have nirvana!

Sitka Spruce

Devil’s Cauldron 

Oregon Anniversary

After a stopover at Memaloose State Park, in the Columbia River Gorge, we continued our trek to the Oregon Coast. The drive was absolutely breathtaking, with waterfalls spilling over rock cliffs and vistas of the Columbia River as it cuts it’s way through the Cascade Mountains. We had second breakfast in Portland, then ended the day at a point as far west as we can go. We are in the harbor town of Garibaldi, for a couple nights, at Harborview Inn and RV Park. As the name suggests, we have a view of the harbor and real fishing boats!

Today also happens to be mine and Mark’s 36th wedding anniversary. What a “long strange trip” life continues to be!

Washington Pass Through

When I think of Washington State, I think of the western coast with lush forests and lots of rain. Who knew that eastern Washington is more of a windy plain with rounded hills covered in sage and grasses? We’ve decided to make our way to the Oregon coast, so Ginkgo Petrified Forest State Park, in the Wanapum Recreation Area, has been our choice for a stopover as we continue pushing west. We only have a short time, in the area, but got a beautiful campsite with a view of the Columbia River. We hiked this morning, in the Ginkgo Petrified Forest, which was intriguing because there were no trees on the horizon. The Forest is under the desert scape in petrified form. The trees and logs are protected by grates in the places where they made their way to the surface over a million years ago. Another fact I didn’t know; Petrified wood is Washington’s official state gem!

Nakation

Because Idaho is just opening their state parks to overnight camping, there was no way in advance to make reservations for this area. We were able to get a spot at Heyburn State Park for five nights but the weekend was booked. Because we still had things we wanted to see and do, in the area, we looked for private parks for the weekend. We discovered Sun Meadows Family Nudist resort was only ten miles away and had vacancies, so we decided to give the park a try.

We didn’t know what to expect but were pleasantly surprised at what we found. The park is gated and private, and once inside it’s like camping in an ordinary RV Park. We arrived when temps were hovering in the high 50’s- perhaps that makes a difference, but all our fellow campers were clothed around their campsites. The Indoor clubhouse amenities, however, were “all natural” (sauna, hot tub, and heated pools). We are acclimated to areas, involving water, being clothes optional because of the hot springs we frequent. The odd thing for us was recreating in the nude. Playing ping pong and shooting pool, in the buff, was a whole new experience. I think everyone who has been skinny dipping recognizes the feeling of freedom gliding through the water. That feeling of freedom is there when you do ordinary activities too. We really enjoyed our adventure here (even though it felt a bit like we were in the movie Cocoon) and ended our stay with one of the prettiest sunsets of our trip.

Patriotic campsite neighbors 

State Parks Open Again

We are camping in a state park again! Heyburn State Park was Idaho’s first state park and is the oldest state park in the Pacific Northwest; established in 1908. The campground where we are staying is about 30 miles from Coeur d’Alene and sits beside a beautiful lake. It has some cool hiking trails and lots of wildlife to see; especially birds. We’ve seen bald eagles, blue heron, osprey, white pelicans and red breasted nut hatches. Sadly though, Minnesota’s state bird is also here; the mosquito!

We’ve enjoyed and appreciated the private parks and Air Force bases that have provided a place to stay, during the pandemic, but it is nice to have state parks as an option, again, as we continue our travels.

Beautiful Books

When asked about his opinion on books and reading, writer, William Faulkner had this advice, “Read, read, read.” I love to read, and one way I entertain myself, while traveling about the country, is to make sure I always have a stack of good books. I couldn’t believe my luck (while looking for a disc golf course in tiny Alberton, MT)  Mark and I  stumbled upon Mountain Valley bookstore. I don’t believe I’ve ever been inside a building with more books (other than a public library). Keren Wales (the owner since 1978) estimates she has 100,000 used books. She also has an amazing system keeping track of them all. I was thrilled to replenish my travel supply and visit such an impressive store that has survived the digital age.

Wandering the aisles of the bookstore, however, brought to mind something my daughter, Kady, recently posted in response to friends asking for tangible ideas to show support for people of color after the George Floyd tragedy. (Kady’s husband is black and they have a three year old little boy together.) She encouraged her friends, with children, to buy children’s books with black protagonists, and read them during story time. In her words: “When we read, we relate and empathize with the characters we are reading about. In most children’s books, the protagonist is white, so not only is the empathy built, during story time, centered on white characters, it reinforces the idea that whiteness is normal and blackness isn’t. No matter where you live, or who your child’s friends are, reading about a brown girl who doesn’t want to leave the park, or a black boy whose pen pal is a dragon, will help them build empathy for others.” She also noted: “If you’re not a mom (or dad), consider buying these types of books and donating them to area pre-K and elementary schools.

Kady is a teacher, as well as a mom, and I love that she sees the importance and power of books.

One last quote I’ve always loved, from C.S. Lewis: “ We read to know we are not alone.”